Here are some general tips on preparing your flowers for the show. Guidance for some specific flowers is given after this section.
Before Cutting
- 2 – 3 weeks prior to show, keep soil moist
- Remove any unwanted, weak sideshoots or buds to help develop the main flower
- If possible protect blooms from damage caused by rain and splashing from the soil
Cutting
- Check the Show Schedule for requirements of the class you are entering
- Cut for the show in the evening or early morning – when the flowers and foliage are cool
- Flower stems should be cut as long as possible
- Make a slanting cut at the end of the stalk as this will assist the uptake of water
- Avoid handling the flowers more than is necessary
- Carry the cut stems with the blooms facing downwards keeping the plant away from draughts or bright sunshine as much as possible
- Try to cut sufficient flowers to allow some choice in your final selection
- Remove undeveloped sideshoots, unopened buds and some of the lower leaves as these will divert water from the stem and flower
- The cut stems should be plunged upright, up to their necks in deep containers of clean, cold water – preferably overnight. Place in cool position away from light because stems are drawn to the light and can become curved
Transit To Show
- Place flowers in containers big enough to prevent the flowers becoming squashed or damaged during the journey
- Pack cotton wool, soft paper or other similar materials between specimens to prevent movement and buffeting during the journey
Staging At The Show
- Remove any damaged flowers together with discoloured or broken leaves which may have occurred during the journey
- Cut a portion from the base of all flower stems to assist the uptake of water
- Ensure the length of stalk is appropriate for the size of vase or container you are using to display your exhibit
- Ensure all containers are filled with water otherwise the plants may wilt during the show
- Use a water-colour brush or cotton wool to gently remove any dust or dirt from the flowers
- Try to produce a good balance using flowers of even size and quality
- Stems should be straight and strong, holding the flowers upright
Flowers should have uniform colour, be bright, clear, attractive and free from feathering, peeling, fading, burning and uneven blends
- While large flowers are desirable, substance and form can be sacrificed to obtain excessive size
Remember that a judge will evaluate the stem and foliage, the flower, the container, the arrangement and uniformity of the flowers
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Dahlias
Growing
- Dahlias may be planted as pot-grown plants or as dormant tubers
- Dahlias thrive on well drained, fertile soil. Prepare soil by digging in manure or garden compost and then add a top dressing of bone meal
- Plant pot-grown dahlias after all danger of frost has passed. Plant carefully so as to avoid disturbing the root ball. Water thoroughly
- Plant tubers directly in soil during April, early May
- Plant in a hole about 9in (22cm) across and 6in (15cm) deep. The tuber takes about 6 weeks to develop a shoot above ground
- When dahlias about 15in (38cm) tall stop the plants by removing the growing points – this will encourage side shoots
- Support all plants with canes
- About 6 weeks after planting feed weekly with a liquid fertilizer
Showing
Definitions –
- medium…between 6 – 8in (15.2 – 20.3cm) in diameter
- small……between 4 – 6in (10.2 – 15.2cm) in diameter
- pompon …not exceeding 2in (5.2cm) in diameter
Decorative/Cactus Dahlias
- Cut blooms with a sharp knife on the morning of the show
- Choose blooms which are symmetrical and perfectly circular in outline and which are firm, clean and without blemish
- Colour should be clear, well defined and evenly shaded
- Blooms should be poised at an angle of not less than 45 degrees to the stem
- Arrange exhibit so that all blooms face the front
Pompon Dahlias
- Blooms should be perfectly globular, facing upwards on a straight, firm stem
- Central florets compact, dense at the centre and slightly convex
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Gladioli
Growing
- Plant corms at end of April, beginning of May
- Gladioli like well drained but moisture retaining soil
- Fork into the soil some gritty sand and some well rotted manure
- Plant corms in a sunny position 6- 8in (15 – 20cm) apart and 4 – 6in (10 – 15cm) deep to ensure they do not fall over when flowering
- Loosen the soil in the base of the hole so that the roots can penetrate easily
- Support the stem when it is 6in (15cm) tall by attaching the stem to a cane with string
- When the flower buds are forming, tie in the stem to the cane just below the buds to prevent the stem from breaking when the buds open
Showing
- Select blooms which have erect spikes, are fresh and unblemished
- Each bloom should have a long, well-balanced spike still carrying the bottom flower and numerous other regularly spaced, open and opening flowers and some buds
- A spike should be one third in full flower, one third with buds in colour and one third green buds
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Roses
Growing
- Roses may be purchased as either bare-root or container grown
- All rose need a site in the sun, sheltered from the wind and fertile soil
Planting bare-root roses
- Remove any diseased or damaged growth and cut out any thin or straggly stems at the base
- Dig a planting hole and fork in a bucketful of organic compost mixed with a small handful of bone meal
- Soak plant in a bucket of water for an hour before planting
- Place rose in centre of hole and spread out the roots
- Ensure the bud union is 1 in below the soil level, fill in the hole and lightly tread down the soil to ensure no air pockets among the roots
- Water well
Planting container grown roses
- Place rose in a bucket of water until the compost surface appears moist
- Gently tease out the roots and prune any damaged or diseased branches
- Dig a planting hole, add some bone meal to base of the hole
- Plant so that the bud union is about 1 in below the surface
- Water well
- All roses require regular feeding and suitable rose fertilizers are readily available
Showing
- To produce quality blooms remove newly formed sidebuds so that the main bud develops strongly
- Select blooms which are three-quarters open and cut with about 12in (30cm) stem on the evening before the show
- Remove lower leaves and thorns and plunge into a bucket of cold water up to the necks of the flowers. Keep overnight in cool place
- Arrange rose symmetrically, placing larger blooms in front
- Blooms should be close together but not touching
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Sweet Peas
Growing
- Seeds can be planted either in a seed tray or in the ground where you want them to grow at the end of April, beginning of May
- To help germination, nick the seeds with a sharp knife removing a small piece of seed coat opposite the eye
- It is preferable NOT to soak sweet pea seeds as they are susceptible to rotting
- Sow seeds 2 – 3in (5 – 7.5cm) apart and 2in (5cm) deep
- Pinch out the growing tips after the first pair of leaves appear
- Thin seedlings to 8 – 12in (20 – 30cm) apart and provide them with some support – a pea net or wigwam of canes or an individual cane (see cordon below)
- Prepare the soil by digging a trench or by double digging and add some well rotted manure
- Water well especially during dry spells and when flowering begins
- Apply a liquid feed 2/3 times at fortnightly intervals
- Dead head flowers to encourage continuous flowering
Cordon Training
- To produce better flowers for showing, sweet peas can be trained into cordons – each plant having its own cane to grow up
- When plant is 4 to 6 weeks old and about 12in (30cm) tall restrict the growth to one shoot by cutting or pricking out the extra shoots and tendrils
- Tie the remaining shoot loosely to its support cane
- Continue to nip out side shoots and remove twisting tendrils
- Cut flowers as they open and do not allow flowers to set seed
Showing
- Select sweet peas with strong spikes, open and fresh blooms
- Flowers should have erect standards, rigid wings and be free from spotting or scorching
- Flowers should be of bright colour and have long straight stems
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